a/w 16

The first ready to wear collection from neoss explores the use of the body to change shape and line.The simple disassembly of a shirt inspired the pair to focus the collection on reimagining the construction of classic pieces.

“We wanted to elevate them, which is why really needed to understand them. By taking them apart you start to appreciate the relationship each piece has with one another, which parts are the foundations, and which are the ones you have freedom to play with. We didn’t want to make the shirt back into a shirt, that wasn’t the idea; It was more about understanding why certain things work so well and applying that to the construction of a new piece.”

Encouraged by Kelly Klein’s ‘Pools’ and Hockney’s swimming pool series the pair started to explore the way moving water manipulates line and form, transforming something once linear and bold into something more organic. They applied that thought to how a garment sits on the body. Dips in hems, skewed seams and neoprene binding, enhance lines that might otherwise go unnoticed.

The use of different fabrics compartmentalises the collection into two halves. One holds the stronger silhouettes, with the use of a sporty neoprene to play on the body’s form and changing line. The other, a nostalgic soft wide-ribbed corduroy to communicate a more relaxed shape.